Pruning time for the outdoor grape vines

We have always been rather surprised at how successful we have been at growing grapes outdoors in the garden here at Honey Pot Flowers.  Anna Pavord in her Independent article suggests that it is difficult to grow them north of a line between Gloucester and The Wash so here in Warwick we must be pushing our luck a little.

We have two vines, one of red dessert grapes and one of white dessert grapes.  They have been in place for about 12 years now but unfortunately the variety names have become detached along the way.  Year in, year out they produce a good crop of sweet and tasty grapes and it feels rather special when it comes to harvest time.

In November/December we prune the vines ready for next year.  Writers indicate that if you leave this until the spring when the sap is beginning to rise there is a tendency for the cut ends to weep.

Next year’s grapes are produced on the laterals formed in the current year.  The plants grow very vigorously in the spring and can produce a huge number of floating laterals with many spectacular large fresh green vines leaves.  The aim of the pruning is to not allow the plant to produce too many laterals and encourage the plant to put its efforts into a smaller number of larger bunches of grapes.

Having said this we nearly always have to prune out some laterals next year as well as thin out the number of bunches of grapes on the plant as a whole.  In this way we get larger, juicy grapes.

Grape vines are very attractive climbing plants and we grow our vines up the same trellis supports as our climbing roses.  The main leader is trained in a spiral up one of the main uprights and allowed to clamber across the top so that the grapes hang down and can be picked as you walk through the arch.  A lovely thing to do when you are taking a gentle evening meander around the garden to appreciate your days work.

At this time of year (December) we cut back the leader by about a third and shorten last year’s fruiting laterals back to 2 or 3 buds.  These buds will create next year’s fruiting laterals.  Any unwanted, broken or crossing laterals are also removed to create a nice tight structure that is firmly tied into the supports.   It is very important to take time to tie in carefully and robustly so there is minimal chance of damage from the winter winds over the next few months.

Dormant grape vine before winter pruning
Dormant grape vine before winter pruning
After pruning
After pruning – the climbing leader shortened by one-third, the laterals cut back to 2 or 3 buds and the main stem tied in firmly for the winter

All of this work now will pay dividends next year.  In September/October next year the grapes will begin to ripen and be ready for picking.  Surprisingly we get very little bird damage and without netting we get a good crop for ourselves and also enough to share.  Despite being outside they are sweet enough to eat fresh but one of our preferred methods is to make juice (there is not usually enough to make any sensible amount of wine).

Making the juice is a very simple process.  Pick and rinse the grapes and give them a very quick pulse in the food processor.  This should be just enough to break up the grapes and release the juice but leave the pips intact.  Strain the resulting pulp through a course plastic sieve into a jug and store in the fridge until you need it.  Avoid using a metal sieve as this may impart a metallic taint to the juice.  No sugar needs to be added and the juice will keep at least 2 or 3 days by which time the family have guzzled the lot.

Drinking your own freshly pressed grape juice from your own grape vines is such a pleasure and a real taste of summer.

 

Further reading:  “Pruning” by Christopher Brickell (RHS) (ISBN:  1-85732-902-3)

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Flowers for a mid-summer wedding at Hidcote

As florists and cut flower growers one of the ultimate aims of the garden at Honey Pot Flowers is to have a wide variety of country garden flowers that we can incorporate in our wedding bouquets and venue arrangements.

A couple of years ago we were asked to provide bouquets and hair flowers for a wedding ceremony in the Orangery at the wonderful National Trust Hidcote Gardens.   Perhaps a slightly daunting prospect sending flowers to Hidcote but an exciting challenge all the same.  We also provided DIY buckets of our cut flowers for the wedding party to decorate their wedding venue at nearby Mickleton Hills Farm.

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Bridesmaid’s Bouquet. Photograph by Maria Farrelly

The cutting list

The brief was for relaxed bouquets of fresh country flowers in blues, pinks and whites with a pop of yellow.  This style has proved popular with many of our couples over the years.   For this design we used the following flowers:

  • Feverfew
  • Astrantia
  • Astilbe (Pink & White)
  • Larkspur (Pink & Blue)
  • Ageratum (Blue)
  • Limonium (Blue)
  • Gladiolus nanus (White)
  • Solidago (Yellow)
  • Dahlia (Pink)
  • Pinks (Pink)
  • Veronica (Pink & White)
  • Sweet William (White)
  • Cornflower (Blue)
  • Campanula (Pink)
  • Phlox (Purple)
  • Achillea (Pink)
  • Clary Sage (Pink)
  • Asparagus Fern

Also popular are our buckets of flowers for decorating the tables, bar area and entrance at the wedding venue.  These are typically delivered the day before the wedding and allows family and friends to meet (possibly for the first time) and decorate the venue in a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere.

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Reception flowers in mixed glass jars and bottles.

Mickleton Hills Farm is a lovely barn conversion and the couple decorated the tables with small bottles and jars filled with our cottage garden flowers.  The flowers provided included many of those used in the bouquets with the addition of Ridolfia, blue Clary Sage, drumstick Alliums, Cosmos, Shasta daisies, Antirrhinum, Amaranthus, green teasels and Liatris along with a variety of different Hosta leaves and Lonicera nitida stems for foliage.

Planning and preparation

Typically our weddings will have an agreed colour theme.  However, we grow all of our flowers outdoors and are therefore at the mercy of the British weather.  Seasonal flowers are by their very nature, seasonal, and so the flowers that will look at their best on a particular date will vary.  I think all the Brides we work with appreciate this and it is very much part of providing wedding flowers that are locally grown and ‘of the moment’.  We work closely with other growers and suppliers to ensure everything comes together on the day.

Our planning for each wedding usually starts in earnest two weeks before the event.   A walk around the flower garden identifies what flowers will be available and ideas for the bridal party bouquets begin to form.  Initially we will be looking to identify our feature flowers, the spikes, balls, umbels and discs in appropriate colours and then the fillers and foliage that will complement the design.  Detailed bouquet and buttonhole designs are then developed and a full list of the flowers required is created.  From this schedule we identify what additional flowers and materials we may need to order in.

For a Saturday wedding we will usually cut and condition on the Thursday, carry out all the arranging on the Friday ready for delivery on the Saturday.  Cut flowers for venues are typically delivered in water the day before.

One of the major challenges for a mid-summer wedding is keeping all the flowers (and the florist!) cool.  All our bouquets are kept well hydrated right up to the time of the wedding so that they remain at their very best.

For this wedding the Bride wanted individually wired fresh hair flowers for herself and the Bridesmaids.  These have to be prepared at the very last minute and the blooms selected very carefully.  Fresh flowers out of water on hot heads in the summer heat is definitely not ideal from a florists perspective but it all worked out in the end!

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Flower Girl Bouquet. Photograph by Maria Farrelly

Further designs by Carol can be found on the Honey Pot Flowers website and on our Pinterest portfolio.

Credits:  Photography by Maria Farrelly (www.mariafarrelly.com)

Quinces

One of the beauties of growing your own fruit is that you can grow things that you don’t often come across in the supermarket.  Quince (Cydonia oblonga) is something that is well worth growing both for its large, delightful pink blossom in the spring and its large yellow fruits in the autumn.

Quince fruit

The tree in our orchard was planted in 1995 and did take some years to get going but now fruits reliably year after year.  The fruits do seem prone to scab but this only effects the fruits on the surface and does not impact the flesh at all.

Quince flowers dusted with pink

At first glance the fruits might seem daunting being hard and solid and difficult to cut through.  You will need to feel strong to prepare these!  However, peeled and cored and boiled for around an hour in a limited amount of water creates a wonderful, fragrant peach coloured puree that is quite unique.  Mash up (technical term!) with a hand blender and add sugar, lemon and cinnamon and you have the most wonderful puree for use in a wide range of desserts.

The following Quince Crumble Tart from BBC Good Food recipe is one we have done many times and always works well.   The quinces will fill your house with a beautiful quince perfume.

Quince Crumble Tart

Tip: We freeze cooked fruit in large muffin trays.  When frozen tip them out into a bag, label and pop back in the freezer.  You can then take out exactly the amount you need when you need it.  One frozen block fits nicely in a ramekin dish, then topped with crumble mix and placed in the oven gives a quick pud.